Welcome to my Blog

Hi! People say "Your Blog is an unedited version of yourself".Well then this is me.Enjoy my posts and do post your comments.Watch out this space for more "me".

Get The Latest News

Sign up to receive latest news

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Tandoori Nights




A Tandoor is a cylindrical clay oven used in cooking and baking.It somewhat resembles a Masonry oven popularly used in all over Europe and Italy in particular in the pizzerias.

The Indian Barbeque style dates back to times when the rest of the world was still learning the art of cooking……

Some gastronomes say that the Tandoor originated in Afghanistan and was introduced by the ruling Mughals in the Indian Subcontinent.

But the oldest examples of a Tandoor were found in Harappa and Mohenjo Daro settlements of ancient Indus Valley civilisation. It was born more than 5000 years ago, another era - but with similarly harried housewives racing against time and techniques to provide tasty and healthy food their family. Some things never change.

The geography of tandoor using cultures can be ascertained from archeological evidence found across a number of Asian countries that today cover Middle East, Mongolia, the Soviet countries, and of course India and Pakistan.

The Chinese use porcelain ovens, very much like the tandoor, to make their famous Peking Duck. This porcelain is made with clay that is found only in that region. In Iran, the oven is called Tanoor and is even today, used to bake breads, the popular ones being called berbery, sangak and lavash..almost as regularly used as flour bread in the rest of the world. In other Arab countries too, makeshift tandoors are made wherever clay and twigs are available , and breads are baked sticking to the sides of the oven. Sometimes, a pot of meat curry or meats is also cooked inside the same oven along with the breads…a most primitive, yet efficient method of getting a meal ready.

The origin of the word "Tandoor" probably came from the Sanskrit word "Kandu", meaning a large bowl shaped vessel.Over the period of time the K was replaced by T. Another theory says that the word is derived from the Pushtu (a local language spoken in Afghanistan, India & Pakistan) "Tata"- hot "Andar"-inside.. To Tandar , and Tandoor followed.

The first proper mention of the tandoor as a cooking implement is found in a medical treatise of the ancient Vedic era, by an ancient physician who is regarded as the father of surgery in India, Sushrut. The treatise is called Sushrut Samhita Sursthanam. He has listed out the varieties of meat preparations, and also specified that meat cooked on open charcoal fire (dry roasted), are easy on the digestion…..obviously meaning tandoor cooking is healthy as well as tasty.

With the passage of time and invasions from the west and the North West increased and gradually the culture of Vedic India was not limited in its geography. Scriptures in ancient Indian languages found along the silk route also describe similar cooking methods. Another famous physician of the BC era, Charvak, describes healthy ways of cooking meats on sit fires, the right marinades as well as the healthy smearing and tenderizers that could impart maximum flavor to the meats.

By the fifteenth century, the tandoor was firmly in position as the baker’s kitchen in every marketplace having at least one. In addition, often village community had community tandoors for baking their daily bread.... The Mughals came, and went, so did the colonizers…but the tandoor flourished. Today it occupies a place of pride in the Five Star cuisines of Indian hotels, in the taste buds of Indian youth..and in the psyche of the countries that wish to taste that delectable , rich and distinctive cuisine, Indian food.

It is very probable that an average British today consumes almost as much tandoor cooked food a does an average Indian…for in countries like England, tandoori food finds great patronage…whether identified as Indian, Pakistani or Bangladeshi or Middle Eastern. After all, tandoor is a tandoor by any other name…and as delightful.



So, this was a short history of the Tandoor. Now lets look at the functioning of a Tandoor...

Basically, the tandoor works on the same principle as the oven. The biggest advantage it has, and this is over the oven also, is that it provide completely wrap around heat, because of its construction. By controlling the draught and the fuel, it can be heated to up to 400 degrees centigrade, a feat that no other traditional coking oven can achieve.

It uses chopped dry timber as fuel and is made from clay free of any silica content (or mud), some grasses for pliability, along with some binders. The drum shaped oven is open at the top and has an opening about 10 cms across at the bottom to remove the ashes and also allow circulation of air.

The oven itself is either built in sections; wherein cylinders of a certain width and height are put together in layers and then gelled into each other to get the whole oven, or a coil is used to make the whole cylinder in one go. Either ways, it takes a lot of smoothing and then internal curing to make sure that it doesn’t crack on drying, and also that no breads or meats stick to its internal surface while cooking.

Traditionally the tandoor uses non-smoky, non-resinous wood. In modern times, charcoal is the easiest to use fuel. Coke though, is never used inside the tandoor since it has high sulphur content. While cooking, sometimes twigs of aromatic herbs are added to the fuel during cooking, and these impart subtle flavors to the food inside. Charcoal heat inside itself adds to the flavor of the meats and breads cooking inside, and these herbs make the whole thing even better.

To bake breads, the dough is fashioned into round flats and stuck to the sides with a hooked stick or even bare hands. When it is ready, if falls off and can be collected. Meat is usually skewered and stuck into the oven, periodically tested for tenderness, and then the skewers or long sticks are taken out. Sauces and gravies are usually served separately.

While baking various types of breads in the tandoor as been done since time immemorial, meats can be cooked in the tandoor only after tenderizing. Only tender meats can be fully cooked in it, since there is no provision for braising, sautéing or broiling. Traditionally, in India at least, meats were not cooked in the tandoor. The only exception that history throws up is the meat of the still born lamb of the variety burrah karakul, which was possible because it was so tender. The regular flesh needs tenderizing for at least 6-8 hours before plunging it in the tandoor. Fortunately, the Indian spice tradition has the solution for this and the result is there for the entire world to see, taste and admire.

Some of the best traditional tenderizers used in tandoori cooking are souring media like lemon and pomegranate juice, curds, pungent condiments like ground mustard. This information can be found in the medical treatise of an ancient Indian physician, Sushruta, dating back to the fourth century AD. He lists out these tenderizers for cooking meats, thereby making them a wholesome diet with tissue building properties.

Today we know that some of the best tenderizers are raw papaya, yoghurt, raw pineapple, and sometimes, even vinegar. Of course, the one to use will depend on what flavor the dish is planned to be, for in Indian cuisine, there are no hard and fast rules, the personality of the dish almost always reflects the expression of the person cooking it.

Now..its recipe time...I have taken this recipe from one of famous Indian Food writers Madhur Jaffrey..
Its a pretty simple recipe and the best thing about this recipe is that you actually dont need a tandoor at home!! Just an oven will do..after the marinade is the crucial thing which gives the distinct taste..

Tandoori-Style Chicken
=================



Preparation time: Overnight

Cooking Time: 10-30 mins

Ingredients
-------------


  1. 1.25kg/2½lb chicken pieces (legs and/or breasts) skinned
  2. 1 tsp salt
  3. 3 tbsp lemon juice

For the marinade:


  1. 450ml/¾pt plain yoghurt
  2. ½ onion, coarsely chopped
  3. 1 garlic clove, chopped
  4. 2.5cm/1in piece fresh root ginger, chopped
  5. 1-2 hot green chillies, roughly sliced
  6. 2 tsp garam masala
  7. lime or lemon wedges, to serve


Method


1. Cut each chicken leg into two pieces and each breast into four pieces. Make two deep slits crossways on the meaty parts of each leg and breast piece. The slits should not start at an edge and should be deep enough to reach the bone. Spread the chicken pieces out on two large platters. Sprinkle one side with half the salt and half the lemon juice and rub them in. Turn the pieces over and repeat on the second side. Set aside for 20 minutes.


2. Meanwhile, make the marinade: combine the yoghurt, onion, garlic, ginger, chillies and garam masala in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Strain the paste through a coarse sieve into a large bowl, pushing through as much liquid as you can.


3. Put the chicken and all its accumulated juices into the bowl with the marinade. Rub the marinade into the slits in the meat, then cover and refrigerate for 8-24 hours. Preheat the oven to its maximum temperature and set a shelf in the top third of the oven where it is hottest. Remove the chicken pieces from the marinade and spread them out in a single layer on a large, shallow, baking tray. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until cooked through. Lift the chicken pieces out of their juices and serve with lemon or lime wedges.

Bon apetit!!

(Source: Wikipedia, BBC Food, Madhur Jaffrey recipes)
»»  read more

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Rasagola - Sweet balls of joy.


Durga Puja and Bengal...Perhaps both these words are synonymous. Durga puja is the ethos of Bengalis and perhaps the way they celebrate this festival with grand and pomp compares none to any other community..

Festival of Bengalis and how can one miss the delectable spread of sweet dishes that this part of the country has given to the world. Chandrapulli, Labongo Latika, Payesh, Sandesh and most popular "Rasagola".

Rasagola are cheese balls(size of golf balls) immersed in a flavored sugar syrup.It is mainly prepared by kneading chhena and a small amount of semilina. These are rolled into small balls, and then boiled in light syrup made of sugar. This is done until the sugar enters the balls

Bengal and Orissa are neighboring states and each of them have some "Coffee Bite" arguments which has continued since ages..prominent among them are Was Subhash Chandra Bose an Oriya or Bengali? and the origin of the Rasagola...

In fact, whenever Bengal comes to our mind the first thing that crosses our thought is the Rasagola.

But, let me tell you an interesting fact, Rasagolla was created in Orissa much before the Bengalis knew what it was..

It is believed that rasgulla was invented in Bengal where it was considered to be a traditional sweet. Nobin Das, who was a confectioner in Kolkata is considered as the father of rasgulla. He is famously known as "Rasagolla's Columbus". But by the time Nobin Das introduced rasgulla to Kolkata, it had already become a traditional sweet of Orissa, in the cities of Bhubaneswar and Puri. The recipe or rasgulla then spread from Orissa to West Bengal. This was during the Bengal renaissance when brahmin cooks from Orissa, especially from Puri, were routinely employed in richer Bengali households. They were famed for their culinary skills and commonly referred to as Ude Thakurs (Oriya brahmin-cooks). As a result, many Oriya delicacies got incorporated into the Bengali kitchen.

The rasagolla was invented in the state of Orissa, where it has been a traditional sweet dish for centuries. Arguably, the best rasagollas in Orissa are made by the Kar brothers, the descendants of a local confectioner, Bikalananda Kar, in the town of Salepur, near Cuttack. Another variant of this dish that is made in the town of Pahala, located between the cities of Bhubaneswar and Cuttack, is also very popular locally. One theory pinpoints the origin of the rasagolla to the town of Puri in coastal Orissa, where it is a traditional offering to the Hindu goddess, Lakshmi, the consort of the Puri temple's main deity, Jagannath. In fact, it is an age-old custom inside the temple to offer rasagollas to Lakshmi in order to appease her wrath for ignoring her, after the commencement of the annual chariot festival (Rath Yatra).

Savoring Rasagollas in Orissa is one unforgettable experience. Driving southwards on National Highway 5, just miles before the capital city of Bhubaneswar, lies the village of Pahala. The entire village - mind you, I mean each and every family - follows exactly the same business, selling Rasagollas, Chhenagaja, and Chhenapoda. There are dozens of identical looking stalls right along the highway. It would be heresy for an Oriya not to stop by one of those stalls and try some of their delectable wares.

A newcomer, used to the standard "Bengali sweets", would hardly recognize the fluffy, cream-colored, billiard ball sized wonders sold at Pahala as Rasagollas. But that is what they are. As a matter of fact, those are exactly how Rasagollas were supposed to look like for centuries before Nobin Das started marketing their crumbly, chewy descendants, calling them his own.

Pahala is not the only place you can sink your teeth into those exotic dollops of cheese. Tucked deep inside rural Orissa, lies the town of Salepur. An unassuming little place otherwise, its Bikalananda Kar Rasagollas are simply divine! These ones look a lot like their Pahala counterparts and are equally famous in Orissa. But they are eaten by the Salepuri locals with crispy Poories as the accompaniment! Although it may seem unconventional at first, a mouthful of the combination would instantly tell the uninitiated how well the Rasagollas and Poories complement each other!

But Rasagollas are not the sole Oriya creation. There are Chhenagaja, Chhenapoda, Rasabali, and Rasmalai, and much much more that Orissa has to offer. In fact much of its ancient culinary treasures are hidden even today, waiting to find their own Nobin Das's and Haradhan Moiras. Orissa, the state that gave the world Rasagolla and Kheeri is still undiscovered country, and the Mecca of gastronomic delights!

During 1868, Nobin Das, who belonged to Kolkata, modified the recipe of the rasgulla as he wanted to extend the life of the sweet which was originally highly perishable. As a result of his modification, the rasgulla became a lot spongier than it originally was but it remained non-perishable for quite some time, which made it easier for Nobin Das to market it as a product. Subsequently, K.C. Das who was Nobin Das's son began to can the rasgulla which resulted in the widespread availability of the sweets. Slowly, the popularity of the rasgulla spread to all over India. We can find rasgullas all over the country today; specially the canned ones. Not only India, rasgullas have become very popular in Pakistan and Bangladesh as well. It is really heartening to see even South Asian grocery stores in countries like the United Kingdom and America are now housing rasgullas. They are marketed not only by K.C. Das but by some famous sweet makers from Bikaner and Delhi as well.



Recipe:
----------
Ingredients

Chenna (Cottage Cheese)

1. Regular Milk: 4 Cups
2. Distilled White Vinegar: 1½ Tablespoon

Syrup

1. Sugar: 1 Cup
2. Sugar: 1 Cup
This is not a mistake. I add sugar in two stages. This allows the Rasagulla to remain soft and puff easier
3. Water: 3 Cups
4. Water: 1 Cup
This will be used to shock the syrup
5. Lime juice: ¼ teaspoon. This is used to complete the syrup

Miscellaneous

1. Binder/Puff Mix : 2 Tablespoons
Substitute: 2 Tablespoons of All purpose flour (Maida) and a pinch of baking soda (Double acting).
2. Pistachio Nuts Shaved: ¼ Cup
3. Rose water: ½ Tablespoon

Substitute: Vanilla extract

Method
  1. Make Chenna
  2. Mix "Binding/Puff Mix". Work Binder into Chenna with the heel of your hand to make it dough like consistency. Gather it like dough and cover it with damp kitchen towel or plastic film wrap. Let it rest 15 to 20 minutes for binding to work.
  3. Add 3 cups of water and 1 cup of sugar. Heat till sugar is absorbed. Bring it to a boil.
  4. Pinch Cheese ball and make it into ½ to ¾" diameter balls. Put these balls in boiling syrup. The balls will puff up in about 5 to 10 minutes. The cooking time depends on the size of the ball, amount and age of the binding mix. Remove the Cheese balls. Remove the cheese balls as soon as they puff up.
  5. Add the remaining one cup of sugar. Heat till all the sugar is absorbed. Do NOT stir. Turn off heat.
  6. Add one cup of cold water to shock the syrup. Add lemon Juice. Stir.
  7. Add Rose water. Let it cool to at least warm and THEN, re-introduce Cheese balls.
  8. Garnish with shaved Pistachio nuts. Put in refrigerator. Serve cold.



»»  read more